mound commanding the level fields
of rough grass, and a little knot of fir
of rough grass, and a little knot of fir
trees crowns it.'
M.R. James, A Warning to the Curious (1925)
BEGINNING with a quote
from what is undoubtedly one of M.R. James' best-known stories is
perhaps rather clichéd, but as the subject of this piece is likewise a barrow arboreally adorned - as in the tale with Scots
pines, although in this instance deliberately planted by the 1st Baron Rolle, about the turn of the eighteenth/nineteenth century - and commanding a dominating position not unlike the royal
burial chamber which is at the epicentre of A Warning to the
Curious, such an analogy is not, perhaps, entirely without merit.
Before we turn our full attention to this site, it is first necessary
to furnish the reader with a brief introduction to the land over
which it has stood sentinel for more than a millennia
The Heaths of East
Devon
The pebble-bed of East
Devon extends inland from the coast between Littleham and Budleigh
Salterton, forming a modest upland - 607ft at its highest point - which runs in a band some 1-2 miles wide between the Exe and Otter
river valleys, the most northerly spur of which extending to just below Ottery
St. Mary, and which here-and-there is bisected by roads, pathways,
habitations, quarries, and parcels of farm land. The geology and
flora of this 'bed' are peculiar: at one's feet is a sandy soil
strewn with pebbles which are formed from rock some 44o million years
old, whilst about one grows furze, heather, bracken, Scots pines,
along with a smattering of birch and beech. Blocks of commercially
grown pine may be discerned and embanked 'holloways' rich in hedgerow
diversity lead down from the ridge, alongside innumerable winding
brooks, to the verdant river-valleys on either side. These scattered
islands of heathland are divided into a number of common lands,
each associated with a nearby parish or settlement to which the
denizens are granted historic 'rights of use'. These are, Woodbury,
Colaton Raleigh, East Budleigh, Bicton, Hawkerland, Aylesbeare, Venn Ottery, Harpford, Dalditch, Withycombe, and Lympstone. These
areas, some converging some isolated, but all sharing the commonalties
discussed above, are known in the vernacular as 'The Common'.
The majority of
European heathlands were formed by the piecemeal clearance of forest
from light soils by a succession of Neolithic, later Bronze
and Iron Age farmers for arable and pastoral farming, which use
gradually denuded the land of its fertility; eventually admitting only hardier vegetation to take root, and relegating the areas to rough grazing and waste. An Iron Age hill fort (from which the nearby village of Woodbury derives it's
name) and circa twenty-six Bronze Age barrows are testament to the antiquity of human occupation on the East Devon heaths, and it is in this direction that our first inquiry shall
take us.
The Beacon, Woodbury
Common
Our subject for this
inaugural foray is a well-known landmark to denizens of the lower Exe
valley. Standing proud from the escarpment which in this vicinity
abruptly defines the westernmost extent of the pebble-bed and which
boasts the highest point of the entire heath (Woodbury Castle, some
547yds to the south) is a well-appointed bowl barrow (SY 03258786)
known locally as 'The Beacon'. Its status as a landmark is due in
part to its position at a point when the northern-running scarp, from
which it protrudes, sweeps around to the north-east, situating the
tumulus on something of a promontory, and also to the crown of Scots
pines which it bears. Indeed, it can easily be espied, along with the
beech-capped Woodbury Castle adjacent, from such diverse locations as
Mamhead Obelisk some 7.97 miles SW, or Killerton House
(Dolbury hill fort) some 8.38 miles NNW. The prospect from The
Beacon itself is magnificent and is eloquently conjured by local
historian U.W. Brighouse in Woodbury: A View from The Beacon (1981):
'The eye, sweeping round clockwise from the mouth of the Exe estuary, takes in the red cliffs of Dawlish and Teignmouth, the highest points of Dartmoor sticking up in blue peaks above the straight line of the Haldon Hills, the great green basin of the Exe valley hemmed in by the red hills of mid-Devon; to the north-east, framed by the Honiton Gap in the Blackdown Ridge, is the familiar and favourite silhouette of Dumpdon – a prehistoric hill-fort crowned with beech trees; to the east rises Pinn Beacon with the sea beyond and in the distance Portland Bill, looking like an elongated island, sixty miles away in Dorset.'
Sadly the eastern view
is now somewhat obscured by a straggly growth of pines, which lie between The Beacon and the B3180, which passes a mere 70yds away. Indeed, despite the proximity of the road the site itself is not as easily obtained as once it was: there used to
be a small car-park adjacent, but during the foot-and-mouth outbreak
of 2001, when access to the British countryside was restricted, the various
car-parks on The Common were sealed with earthen barriers to deny
entrance to walkers. When the all-clear was given in late September of
that year, not all these blockaded areas were reopened and that
at The Beacon was amongst these; in the intervening years furze and
bramble have contrived to erase all trace of the car-park. Of course this seclusion has doubtlessly
aided preservation of the site from the erosion caused by the
passage of many feet, and it should be pointed out that, although not obvious, the current approach is of no especial hardship for the veteran countryman.
Given the dearth of visitors, it cannot be denied that the place exudes a silent and rather forsaken
atmosphere, even on a warm April eve.
As mentioned, the barrow is currently shielded from the road by a small band of pines, but an overgrown trail passes through this barrier, revealing the above view. |
Recent storms have considerably thinned the mantle of pines on the summit, although enough currently remain to ensure the site continues to be identifiable from afar. |
The flat-top of the barrow. |
Looking south towards the beech-bedecked Woodbury Castle. The broad ribbon of the Exe Estuary may be seen on the right. |
Looking SW towards the Haldon Hills, which rise up from the Exe Estuary. The estuary mouth is hidden by the Scots pine on the left. |
Looking WNW towards Exeter, which lies below the hills in the centre of the picture. |
On the other side of
the B3180 some 558yds ENE from the Beacon is sited another bowl
barrow (SY 03758799), some 65ft in diameter and standing 7.6ft high.
Similar aspersions have been cast about the site's authenticity. However, again due to size and location, it is now accepted as being an original barrow, albeit landscaped at the same time as the others (the
surrounding ditch is considered to be an addition of this time). Again, it has never been excavated.
Looking WSW towards The Beacon from the summit of the barrow at SY 03758799. The B3180 snakes past to the right. |